We had a surf lesson as a group on Friday and I fell in love with surfing. My instructor Gars was awesome and I stood up almost every time I went. The waves were great and they just kept coming, but it was WAY exhausting to fight the current to get back out after surfing into the beach.
Gars also started by calling me Kiki, then switched to k-i-k-i, and then ended up calling me k1k1. Therefore I have deemed k1k1 my surfing alter ego.
I’m going to move to Hawaii and becoming a surf bum living in a shack on the beach.
The surf life is so good here! I love being out in the ocean feeling the power of the surf below me. Swimming is also awesome but it is kind of nice to wipe out and be caught in the serenity of the waves.
I hung out in the surf shop next door to our apartments this morning and I got to play with the workers’ 2 year old nephew before I rented a board to take surfing with a couple of friends.
The waves in the afternoon were so much better than the waves in the morning and it was less crowded with lessons and surfers so that was a bonus for the afternoon as well. I am so excited to keep surfing over the next couple months and I think it might be hard to come home and leave surfing behind.